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1 -
Bring
4 - 1/2 gals of water to 150 to 170
Degrees
Turn off Flame
2 -
Put grain into Muslim bag
Seep for 30 min
Then rinse them out grain bag
hot
water get all the flavor
/ (Don’t
squeeze)
3 – Add Malt Syrup
rinse all
of
it
out of bag / bottle Yum
Yum
Bring
to rolling Boil begin 60 min
timer
4 Add Hops in Muslim Bag
5 -
Then last 15 min of boil add
Wart
Tablet
and
Second hops Small bag
6 -
Last
10 mins of boil insert
copper coil
for cooling let
set in water to disinfect
Cool down boiling
water
about 70 to 75 Degrees
7 Remove
Hop Bags
and Poor wart into sterilized Jug
Top off
with
cold water to get 5 Gal of wart
8 -
wiggle your Bottle of wart around to get air for the yeast
Add
Yeast
then put
Airlock
Wait 2 weeks to
bottle “Hurry
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Sprouting the Hop seeds
They require a cold
stratification period of dormancy,
Here are some basic steps that I followed:
1 - Soak the seeds
in a slight bleach solution to sterilize the surface.
2 - Place the seeds
ziplock with a barely wet (wrung out) paper towel.
3 - Store at 40F in the
fridge for a month.
4 - After a month, move
the seeds to a +70F area.
5 - As they individually
sprout, move the seeds to soil
At this point only a few
of the seeds have sprouted.
If, after a few weeks,
there is no sign of further activity, I plan to repeat steps 2-4.
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“
As Easy As I
Can Make It” Red Wine Recipe
By Home Brew It
Makes 1 gallon.
This is as simple as I can make it,
other than my Freaked Out Hippie Recipe.
I cannot stress enough to try to
make sure all your utensils are clean or sterile as possible.
Ingredients
◾5 pounds
Concorde grapes
◾2 quarts water
◾2 pounds sugar
◾1 package wine
yeast
Instructions
1.Lightly crush grapes in a primary
fermenting container.
2.Dissolve sugar in water and add to
crushed grapes (called must).
3.Pour one pack of yeast into 2-3 ounces
of water heated to 104 – 109 degrees F. Do not stir and let sit for 15
minutes only. Then stir to suspend
yeast and add to must.
4.Note that you can use bread yeast, but
your wine might taste like cider. Or you can also do it the old
fashioned way: take your chances and not add any yeast and let it
ferment naturally.
5.Stir well and cover fermentor loosely.
6.Let ferment for 7 days, stirring twice
daily.
7.After seven days, remove the pulp and
siphon off the liquid through a course strainer into a secondary
fermentor (a 5 gallon glass jug or one gallon glass containers) Leave
some breathing room in these bottles. Any extra liquid should be kept
for topping off when racking.
8.Top with a rubber bung and airlock. Or
you can use the 70s way and put a balloon on top, secured with a rubber
band or good string. Put one pinhole in the balloon if using this
method.
9.Let ferment 3-4 weeks then rack
(siphon off, liquid leaving sediment behind) into clean secondary
fermentor. Repeat airlock or balloon method for another 4 - 6 weeks or
until fermentation has stopped.
10.Siphon off and bottle.
11.Age for one year.
How long should beer be left
in the carboy before bottling/kegging?
While there may be much debate about whether
secondary fermentation is necessary or not,
Midwest suggests trying it once and judging
for yourself. We think you’ll see, smell, and taste a
noticeable difference in the quality of your
beer. As soon as you are seeing one bubble a minute
or less coming out of the airlock of your
primary fermenter (usually after 1-2 weeks for most ales,
and about 2 months for most lagers), it’s
time to transfer (or “rack”) your brew to a glass carboy
or Better
Bottle for secondary fermentation.
Several styles of beer will benefit from a
longer secondary fermentation. This time gives the
beer a chance to settle naturally and for the
flavors to blend properly.
Light Ales: 1 week primary/1-2 weeks
secondary
For a style like Liberty Cream Ale, Honey Bee
Ale, Aussie Light Ale, etc., we would recommend
one week in primary, and 1-2 weeks in
secondary. The lighter flavor of these beers allows the beer
to be drinkable sooner because you are not
waiting for the alcohol bitterness to subside, or for the beer to mellow
out. You are just waiting for the beer to
clear to your liking. So, once it is clear enough, feel free to bottle
or keg.
Reasons
for racking
There are three main
reasons for racking. Firstly, if you wish to
ferment
your beer longer than say 10 days,
moving the beer off the yeast cake will reduce the risk of autolysis,
a process whereby yeast cells, having consumed all other available food,
begin to metabolise each other, creating a foul taste. Secondly, the
time spent in the secondary gives the beer time to clear, as solids in
the beer settle out. Thirdly, the time the beer spends in the secondary
fermenter is a period during which the beer matures and the flavours
smooth out. A period of time maturing in a fermenter is more beneficial
than maturation in a bottle, as larger volumes make maturation easier
and more effective.
Additionally, racking
is the most common ways to do bulk priming. Bulk priming is where you
dissolve a measured amount of sugar into your fermented beer just prior
to bottling in order to achieve consistent and accurate carbonation in
every bottle regardless of bottle size. It has the additional bonus that
you don't have to stuff about priming every bottle individually. By
racking onto your sugar you avoid stirring up the trub,
as you would if you tried to stir the sugar into the primary (or
secondary) fermenter.
My Pallet Says Yahoo
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Beer Equipment Company's
Great Guys Talk to Tony
Free Shipping Over $60.00
Moving to All
Grain
After you have
some experience with Extract Brewing, you will inevitably find yourself
wanting to make the move to All Grain. While the all grain brewing
process does take 1-2 hours longer (for the Mashing and Sparging
processes, it offers a much wider range of ingredients and better
control over the brewing process. This article details some of the items
you need to consider when moving from extract brewing to all grain
brewing.
Equipment
All grain brewing does involve an added
investment in equipment. Here I assume you already have a 5 gallon
fermenter, racking and bottling equipment but probably lack some of the
items below:
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thumbnail to destination
Mash TunLarge
Boil Pot - For all grain brewing you will need to boil the full size of
your brew (usually 5 gallons) plus a gallon or so additional wort that
will boil off during your 60-90 minute boil. In addition you need some
space at the top to avoid boil-over. We recommend at least an 8 gallon
pot for a 5 gallon batch size, or 14 gallon pot for a 10 gallon batch.
In addition you will need a second pot equal to your batch size that you
can use to heat water for sparging.
Outdoor Propane Burner - While it is
possible to heat your huge pot over several burners on a stove, it can
be quite dangerous moving large amounts of wort around and it also takes
a very long time. A high BTU propane burner is relatively cheap and will
boil your wort quickly in the driveway or on the back patio with less
mess. Don't use it in an enclosed area however!
Gott Style Cooler - A water cooler makes
the best Mash Tun for most homebrewers. A 5 gallon cooler can easily be
converted to serve as a mash tun and lauter tun - and the insulation
will make it very easy to do an infusion Mash. See the Mash Tun link for
details on how to add a false bottom to your cooler.
An Immersion Chiller - While not
strictly needed, it does take a very long time to cool 5 gallons of
boiling wort without a chiller. Cooling your beer quickly reduces the
risk of infection and also helps many undesirable proteins and tannins
to fall out of the beer before ferementation.
The All Grain Process
All grain brewing starts with the
Mashing process. All of your grains are crushed first, and the crushed
grains are placed in your Mash Tun. Hot water is then added to the mash
tun to raise the temperature of the mixture to between 148F and 158F.
Typically water is mixed with grains at a rate of approximately 1.25-1.5
quarts per pound of grain. The temperature and amount of water for the
infusion can be calculated using a tool such as BeerSmith. You then
cover your mash tun and leave the mash for 45-60 minutes. During this
time, complex sugars are broken down into simple sugars that yeast can
easily consume. One typically stirs the mash every 10-15 minutes to
prevent hot spots from developing in the cooler.
In the next step, called Sparging, hot
water is added to the top of your mash tun and drained through the false
bottom into your boiler. It takes time to extract the sugars from the
grains, so don't rush this process. I usually allot at least 20-30
minutes to fully sparge the mash tun and extract about 6 gallons of wort
for a 5 gallon batch.
Once you have the hot wort extracted,
the rest of the process of Boiling, Cooling and Fermenting the wort is
the same as it would be for an extract brew. There are only two
differences. First, you will use less hops during the boil because your
wort is not as concentrated - meaning that more bitterness is extracted
from the same amount of hops. The best way to account for this is to use
some brewing software such as BeerSmith to calculate the bitterness of
your brew and adjust your hops accordingly. The second obvious change is
that you are boiling a much larger amount of wort, and need to be
cautious when handling large heavy pots and also need a good cooling
system to cool the wort as quickly as possible. However, the rest of the
brewing process is just as it was with extract brewing.
The process can be a little messy the
first time, but remember it gets much easier after a few
All Grain Brewing Video
Is it worth Brewing your own Beer
My Fridge say's so
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Bottling Homebrew with
Flavored Liqueur
Adding liqueur at bottling time is one way of
adding flavors to your homebrew, especially when making a fruit beer.
Liqueurs are lower-alcohol spirits flavored with fruit, herbs, spices,
or nuts, and then sweetened.
These concoctions are normally used for
flavoring cocktails or coffee, but they Measure out a small sample of
beer and add the liqueur in .1 mL increments. Keep in mind that most of
the sweetness in the liqueur will ferment out. Scale up when you find
the right ratio. For example, if .1 mL
liqueur per 1 ounce beer is the magic number, multiply by 128 (ounces in
a gallon) then by 5 (gallons in a batch) to arrive at 64 mL of liqueur.
Plan for an increase in alcohol content –
Two cups of a
typical liqueur will add about 1% ABV to your five-gallon batch of
homebrew. to arrive at how much liqueur to use for bottling. Just keep
in mind that depending on the flavor of the liqueur, you may or may not
want to use that much. Let’s work through an example: Say you’re brewing
Captain Cogsworth Coffee Stout, but instead of priming with coffee and
sugar, you use eight ounces (by weight) of a 40 proof coffee liqueur.
Measuring the specific gravity of the liqueur, you get 20˚ Plato.
Multiply the proof (40) by .106 = 4.24˚P 20 + 4.24 = 24.24˚P 8 (weight
of liqueur in ounces) * .2424 (percent sugar in liqueur) = 1.94 oz.
sugar In this example, the 8 ounces (by weight) of coffee liqueur
contributes the equivalent of 1.94 oz. of priming sugar.
Adjust
your priming sugar addition accordingly. Alternatively, if you want to
prime with just liqueur, take the total amount of priming sugar and
divide by the total sugar percentage from above: 5 oz. priming sugar /
.2424 = 20.63 oz. liqueur (by weight)
Add 20.63 ounces (by weight, not volume) of the liqueur at bottling
time. -
DIY Cherry Liqueur
IIngredients
- 6 cups Bing
cherries, pitted
- 1 cup brandy
- 1/2 cup vodka
- 1 cup water
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 cinnamon
stick, broken (optional)
Directions
-
1.
Put the pitted cherries at the bottom of a sealable glass
jar and muddle them with a wooden spoon or muddler to
release some juice. Drain the juice into a separate
container and set aside. Then add the brandy, vodka, and
cinnamon stick to the muddled cherries. Seal and shake the
jar. Let steep for one week at room temperature away from
direct sun, shaking every few days.
2 -
Combine the reserved cherry juice, sugar, and water in a pan
and bring to a boil, stirring frequently until sugar
dissolves. Remove from heat and let cool. Once the syrup is
cooled, add it to the steeping jar, seal, and shake. Then
let it steep for an additional 2 to 5 days. Strain through
fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth into glass jar or
bottle. Store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.
Day 1 " Beer on Right, Will it get
Lighter? it's Dark now Just Brewed
Day 2 " Wait " is that getting Lighter
Good
3rd Day WOW
Day 4 Smells good
2 weeks
Later Now
look
"WOW Time to bottol
Out of Stock But I wll get
Things have been quiet around here
for the last few months. A combination of insane travel schedules
and work responsibilities have left me very little time to brew. In
fact, I have just two things happening at the moment: w00tstout in
secondary (on bourbon-soaked oak chips), and Pompey the Great on
draft.
The Pompey The Great (my name
for
Northern Brewer’s Plinian Legacy)
I made is on tap in the game room, now, and it’s delicious. I’m
finding that I love double IPAs more than their traditional
counterparts because of the malt sweetness that balances the
bitterness. Don’t get me wrong — I still love a good Ruination from
time to time — but DIPAs like Pliny and Firestone’s Double Jack (and
the limited-release Double DBA, if you can find it) are rapidly
becoming my go-to choices.
So let’s talk a little bit about the
things we need to consider when we’re making a double IPA, as
opposed to a traditional IPA. These notes primarily apply to
all-grain, but there’s advice for extracts in here, too:
- I
was very
surprised when I did my extract Plinian Legacy, because after
the boil was finished, I had a thick, sticky, extremely viscous
mass in my kettle. It really looked like I’d done something
wrong and wrecked the brew, until I collected everything out of
the kettle (I had to scrape it out with a spatula, it was so
thick) and topped it off. It was
very
useful to have Brewsmith on hand to make sure I used the right
amount of water to top up.
- Following on from that first
point: don’t panic if your extract kit seems to be
super-concentrated at the end of the boil; once you top up,
it’ll be fine.
- In fact, when you top up, put
about a gallon and a half into the fermenter before you add the
wort, and then top it off with water. This way you’ll minimize
striation and get a more accurate hydrometer reading.
- Our mash time will probably be
closer to 90 minutes than 60, because we need to extract more
sugars to hit our target gravity. This also means that our
sparge will be longer, and we’ll need to be very patient during
the entire lautering process.
- Plan on losing a gallon per
hour to boiloff, and another gallon to dead space in your
kettle, and collect eight gallons of wort if you can (be careful
that you don’t make it too thin). Most double IPAs need 90
minute boils, and it’s always better to have more wort left in
the kettle than make a sadface when it’s time to fill the
fermenter.
- Keep an eye on your hops. When
we do double IPAs, we end up using way more hops than in a
traditional IPA, and if you don’t weigh out and bag your
additions ahead of time, it’s surprisingly easy to let things
get mixed up.
- Be prepared to stir your boil.
The extra sugars in these brews make it dangerously easy to
boilover.
- Aerate the hell out of
your wort before you pitch. I use a
stainless steel stone with an
aquarium pump,
and usually aerate for thirty minutes.
- Speaking of pitching, I always
double pitch when I do a beer this big, because my OG is usually
around 1.086 or so, and I want my yeasties to go nuts as quickly
as possible.
-
Don’t rush your primary. Sometimes it can take up to two weeks
for the yeast to do all of its work, and even then you may want
to give it a day or two to clean up after itself. These beers
can get
really
boozy.
- Nearly all double IPAs
use dry hop additions in secondary. While you can use a bucket
or
standard glass carboy
for secondary, I freaking
love
my
Big Mouth Bubblers,
because it makes dropping in the hops bags easy, and clean up is
stupidly simple. After trying to pull a swollen hops bag out of
the neck of an older glass carboy, and ending up wearing a hops
explosion, I will never go back.
- I like to weigh down my hops
bags with some sanitized marbles. DO NOT USE LEAD FISHING
WEIGHTS FOR THE LOVE OF GOD WHY DO I EVEN HAVE TO SAY THIS.
- I like to get my beer out of
secondary on a tight 10 day schedule, so that I get the maximum
hop aroma possible when I finally drink the beer.
- Remember, double IPAs are
delicious, and if you’ve balanced them out properly, you may not
even realize that you’re drinking a beer
that can be upwards of 9% ABV. Keep an eye on that when you’re
enjoying your homebrew, and beware of Bad Idea Bears.
Brand New
Used
 |
Buba Gump Full of Pure
Cherry Juice and 6 Habaneros
Added to the Dark Cherry Stout
Beer above
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| 2 new beers |
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Wine "What shall we sip tonight ?
Smoked Habaneros
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Our Seasoned Wine Tester
Try this one Elain
Hold on Let me finish this Glass
Love it "Sweet Cherry Wine
Like me"
Will it Clear Yes Sir Concord
and Cherry Wine 2 weeks to bottom
Concord From Our Grapes Idaho Home Grown
Cherry wine fermenting
11 Mistakes Every New Homebrewer Makes
1. Using the
sanitizer that comes with a beer kit. This powdered sanitizer is slow
and not especially effective. Instead get a no-rinse sanitizer like
Star-San or Iodophor, which are faster and easier to use. Sanitize
everything that touches your beer post-boil, and make sure it is
carefully cleaned after each use (sanitizers are most effective on
scrupulously-clean scratch-free surfaces). Keeping wild microbes out of
your beer is the single most important step to brewing solid beer.
3. Brewing with unfiltered, chlorine-containing
tap water. If you are on a municipal water supply odds are that it
contains either chlorine or chloramines. To remove them you can either
charcoal filter or treat your water with metabisulfite, or alternatively
use bottled water. One of the most common off-flavors I taste at
homebrew club meetings is medicinal chlorophenol, which is formed by the
combination of chlorine in the water or sanitizer and phenols from malt
and yeast.
4. Squeezing the grain bag after steeping. This
releases tannins, which give the body a rough texture. Steep your grains
in a small amount of water (no more than three quarts per pound) and
then rinse them by either pouring hot water over the grain bag or
dipping the grain bag into a second pot of hot water. Edit: I've had a
couple people dispute squeezing being an issue in the comments. I've
tasted some tannin-y beer from new homebrewers, but maybe it was just
from a high water to grain steeping ratio. I'll have to squeeze the
grain bag into a glass and have a taste the next time I brew an extract
beer.
YEAST
A packet of T-58 dried Belgian ale yeast.5.
Using liquid yeast. "Pitchable" liquid yeast cultures barely have enough
cells to ferment a standard gravity beer on
the day they are packaged, and their cells die quickly from there. A
high quality 11.5 g package of dried yeast starts with as much as twice
the cells as a fresh package of yeast from either Wyeast or White Labs,
and retains high cell viability for much longer. While Fermentis,
for example, claims a minimum of 6 billion cells per gram at packaging,
the actual number tends to be much higher. Liquid yeast can produce
great beers, but require a starter unless you are getting extremely
fresh yeast and brewing a low-alcohol beer.
6. Not aerating the wort adequately. It takes
several minutes of shaking for the chilled wort to absorb the ideal
amount of oxygen to allow the yeast to complete a healthy growth phase.
The healthier your yeast cells are the cleaner and quicker they will
complete the fermentation.
7. Pitching when the side of the pot or
fermentor feels “cool enough.” Use a sanitized thermometer to check the
actual temperature of the wort before you add the yeast. Pitching when
the wort is above 100 F is rare, but will kill the yeast. Ideally the
temperature should be at or below your target fermentation temperature
to allow the temperature to rise as the yeast grows and ferments. You
can pre-chill the sanitized water you use to top-off after the boil to
help bring the temperature down.
8. Fermenting at too high of a temperature.
Take note of the ambient temperature of the room the beer is fermenting
in, but realize that at the peak of fermentation the yeast can raise the
temperature of the beer by as much as 7 F. Fermenting too warm can cause
the yeast to produce higher alcohols and excessive fruity flavors.
Letting the ambient temperature rise towards the high end of the yeast's
range as fermentation slows helps to ensure a clean well attenuated
beer, but for most strains is unnecessary. If you are unable to control
the fermentation temperature, then choose a yeast strain that fits the
conditions.
9. Racking to
secondary. I know the instructions included in most kits call for
transferring the beer from the primary fermentor to a secondary before
bottling, but all this step accomplishes is introducing more risk of
oxidation and wild yeast contamination. There is no risk of off
flavors from autolysis (yeast death) at the homebrew scale in less than
a month. At a commercial level the pressure and heat exerted on the
yeast can cause problems quickly, but those conditions do not exist in a
carboy or bucket.
10. Relying on bubbles in the airlock to judge
when fermentation is complete. Wait until fermentation has appeared
finished for a couple of days before pulling a sample of wort to test
the final gravity. There is no rush to
bottle, and doing so before the final gravity is reached results in
extra carbonation. Once fermentation is complete and the beer
tastes good, you can move the fermentor somewhere cool to encourage the
yeast to settle out for clearer beer in the bottle.
11. Adding the entire five ounce package
of priming sugar. In almost all cases this amount of sugar will
over-carbonate the beer. Even for five gallons of beer this
will produce too much carbonation for most styles and most brewers
will end up with less than five gallons in the bottling bucket.
Instead use a
priming sugar calculator
http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/
Corn Sugar most beers 3.77 ounces 5 gals at 72 Dregees
to tailor the weight of sugar you add to the actual volume of beer,
the style of beer you are brewing, and the fermentation
Add Campden Tablets Or Sulfite: For sure, you want to add sulfites
such as Campden tablets. You can also use potassium metabisulfite or
sodium metabisulfite, instead. Both of these work in the same way as
Campden tablets. The only difference is that they are in a
granulated form. If using Campden tablets, add one per gallon. If
you are using either potassium metabisulfite or sodium
metabisulfite,
add 1/16 of a teaspoon per gallon.
Sweeten The wine To Taste: Most
home winemakers will use cane sugar as a sweetener, but you can use
corn sugar, beet sugar, honey, etc. There is room for
experimentation. Just realize that
regardless of whatever you use, it needs to be completely dissolved
and evenly blended into the wine. Don't skimp on the
stirring. Add Campden Tablets Or Sulfite: For sure, you want to add
sulfites such as Campden tablets. You can also use potassium
metabisulfite or sodium metabisulfite, instead. Both of these work
in the same way as Campden tablets. The only difference is that they
are in a granulated form.
If using Campden tablets, add one per
gallon. If you are using either potassium metabisulfite or sodium
metabisulfite, add 1/16 of a
teaspoon per gallon.
Add Potassium Sorbate: Up to now I have not mentioned potassium
sorbate, (aka, wine stabilizer) but it is the real key to sweetening
a wine at bottling time. Potassium
sorbate does not kill or destroy yeast, wild or domestic, but
instead, it stops them from reproducing. Any yeast fermentation
thrives on the fact that a single yeast cell can reproduce itself
several times before it dies. It does so through a process called
budding. A little bud will emerge from the yeast's cell wall. The
bud will eventually separate and become its own yeast cell. This is
how a yeast colony propagates throughout a fermentation. If the
yeast cannot reproduce, then the fermentation cannot sustain itself.
This is where potassium sorbate comes in. Potassium sorbate
interrupts the reproductive process by coating the yeasts' outer
cell wall, making budding impossible. If the yeast cannot bud, the
colony will not flourish. T he recommended
dosage for potassium sorbate is 1/2 teaspoon per gallons -
See more at:
http://www.eckraus.com/blog/how-do-you-sweeten-wine-at-bottling-time#sthash.iys27l8k.dpuf
I’ve got my hop rhizomes, now what? 
Growing Hops
All Grain Brewing Video
1
2 3
_____________________________________________________________
Fire Furmatation
WilliamsWarn 1L (34 U.S
fl. Oz) Clarification Agent for Home Brewing
I am a new brewer 20gal and brewing I wanted to do a simple
Clarification of my beer
I don't have a way to cool down beer below 60 degrees maybe 65
degrees
I bought some product from you It sounds like a lot of work is
their a way I can just add
an ounce or two to my second carboy after I transfer it from my
main fermenter
then wait 2 weeks to bottle Or do you have simpler clarification
product
Thanks read many reviews just too many opinions
Hi Bob,
No worries if it's not cold, it just works better if it is.
After you have transferred it to your secondary carboy add 1 U.S. fl. oz
and stir gently
repeat this process 24 hours later and that should do the trick!
$1850 Amazon Cheep you
only use 5 tea spoons on gal
His Reply
Best product Ever for clearing Beer
Sent him Photo of how it cleared that
Beer
His Reply "Fantastic
mate that’s awesome! "Thanks
Cheers Pat
Patrick Ratcliffe • Sales • WilliamsWarn Personal Brewery
T. +64 9 525 3488 • M. +64 21 885 185
Unit 3, 739 Great South Rd • PO Box 12203, Penrose
Auckland 1061, New Zealand • williamswarn.com
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